All about
Stabilizers and how best to use them. Stabilizers are
designed to support, and sometimes replace, fabric under the
stress of dense and multi-directional machine stitching.
They can be applied in many ways, but are commonly used with
an embroidery hoop to hold fabric as flat and inflexibly as
possible.
Sticky-Back
Best for any fabric that cannot be hooped easily (especially
quilts!) like shirt cuffs or collars, socks, bags, etc.
You stick it to the fabric on one side, while the other is
covered by protective sheeting. You can either put the
stabilizer in your hoop with the sticky side up and place
your fabric on top or place your fabric on the stabilizer
and then hoop it.
Tear-away
Best used for light to medium weight woven fabrics like
cotton, canvas, silks, sheers or satins, and corduroys and
any embroidery project that is "in-the-hoop".
Considered a soft stabilizer for lightweight fabrics but it
does come in different thicknesses. Consider it
temporary support that is faster and easier to use, just
realize each needle hole lowers the stability. Choose
a bi- or multi-directional tear-away for the easiest
removal. If you are doing a lot of stitching (large
design) it is probably best that you use two layers of
tear-away, it will help with stabilization, but when you are
done, only tear one layer at a time away. If you have
little bits of stabilizer left behind after tearing, either
use tweezers to pull them out or, if more difficult to
remove, a permanent felt pen the same color as your stitch
thread to colour over them.
Cut-away
Best used for stretchy and more unstable fabrics like knits,
stretch denim, velvet, corduroy, fleece or towelling.
This is more of a medium weight stabilizer as it is consider
a more permanent support that should last through wearing
and laundering. Again, if you are doing a larger
design or using a lot of stitching, it is probably best to
use two layers of cut-away, but it is a better choice for
larger designs or ones with more stitches. Cut away
any excess stabilizer once you are done. This type is
also great for any project to be framed - because you don't
see the back!
Iron-On
Most commonly used because it is good for most fabrics,
especially lightweight ones, but can be used for medium- to
heavy-weight knits as well. It's not good for designs
with tightly packed rows of stitches though because it would
make it difficult to remove. It is a paper-based
stabilizer with a waxy film that irons on the back of your
fabric. You can use iron-on stabilizer with tear-away
if you want more stabilization. It's good for
getting proper hooping. You should tear or peel off
any excess once you are done. If you avoid ones with a
lot of glue, you will have less problems stitching because
it will not gummy up your needle.
Water-Soluable
Best for any free standing lacework design or for top ups on
towelling, corduroys, velvets or knits because it can be
used on top or underneath fabrics and any excess should wash
away in water. It is great for use on top of towelling
to ensure the fabric nap does not poke through your
embroidery designs and also for more intricate designs where
it might be more difficult to tear or cut away the
stabilizer. Note: store in zipper-lock-type
baggies as this type tends to stiffen with continued
exposure to the air.
There are a few
types available. The most common being a plastic-like
film and soluble paper. Both can be used with hoops.
There are also adhesive-backed and heavier films which are
great for embroidering lace and Richelieu, as well as
cutwork and designs. Also there is a type of brush-on
liquid as well as a spray-on that makes the fabric firmer
than starch without the build up or scorch. These last
two aren't really stabilizers, but you can use them along
with tear-away for things like appliqué projects.
Heat Removable
Best for projects that are very delicate or can't be washed.
You can only use this on fabrics that will not burn, as heat
removes it. Good for use on off the edge stitching
techniques. You should really only use this type when
your fabric is too delicate for tear-away, too sheer for
cut-away, is not washable, or when you're working with
special techniques like making lace at an edge.
Note: store in zipper-lock-type baggies as this type
tends to stiffen with continued exposure to the air.
There are two types
of heat removeable stabilizer. Woven or a plastic-like
film. The woven turns brown and flakes when heated
with an iron, and the flakes can be gently brushed away. But
be careful because the chemical it uses to do this is
water-soluble, so a steam iron wouldn't be appropriate.
The plastic-like
film heats and melts. It is used more for topping so
stitches don't get lost in dense nap or pile. It stays
under the stitching to support it during washings. Any
excess around the stitches disappears when you use a hot dry
iron. Just touch the surface, don't slide the iron
across the film. Then you can just wipe away any beads
on the iron with a paper towel or fabric scrap.
A few last
tips.
A lot of
stabilizers look very similar. If you remove the
original packaging and label information, it's in your best
interest to put some kind of note labelling its type to ease
future confusion.
You can use more
than one type of stabilizer in the same project in some
cases. It can simplify a more complex project where
you might use wing-needle stitching on a soft fabric with
stabilizer before hooping the fabric with a sewn-in
tear-away from a digitized design.
If you do a lot of
embroidery, sometimes it is good to keep samples on
different types you've done to make it easier to figure out
what type to use for future projects.
Some fabrics just
aren't good for embroidery, so no stabilizer will help that.
As long as your
fabric doesn't show holes, sometimes you can also use pins
or baste stitches to hold the stabilizer in place on the
fabric for a better result.
Wondering if you
should use tear-away or cut-away? The general practice
is that if your fabric stretches, use cut-away. If
not, then tear-away.
For more great
ideas....contact
the creative crew at Ultimate Sewing Centre!
Past tips:
Determining Fabric Type
Removing
Marking Stains
Dye Magnet
Make
Chenille
Stabilizers